My picks in Shops, Gifts, Finds

Custom-made Shoes for Men & Women

If the shoe fits, wear it, they say, but sometimes finding that shoe can be a challenge. Rather than adjusting yourself to off-the-rack shoes, have a pair (or two) custom made for you by one of the world’s finest bespoke footwear specialists for men and women.
If the shoe fits, wear it, they say, but sometimes finding that shoe can be a challenge. Rather than adjusting yourself to off-the-rack shoes, have a pair (or two) custom made for you by one of the world's finest bespoke footwear specialists for men and women.

Kow Hoo Shoe Co.

Hong Kong, China

All it takes is a single visit to this shop in the bustling Prince's Building for a lifetime of custom shoes. The oldest shoemaker in Hong Kong does things the old-fashioned way: the wooden shoe lasts of every client are kept on file for seven years, so you can place an additional order by email and they'll design a new pair that fits you just right. Send them a design and they'll work in that style, or opt for a pair of their signature Goodyear Welteds. The craftsmen have a jungle's worth of leather on hand—German calfskin, snake, crocodile, eel and ostrich, to name a few.

www.kowhoo.com.hk | Phone: +852 2523 0489
Shop 241, 2/F., Prince's Building, 10 Chater Road | Central, Hong Kong China
Geography: Hong Kong, China

LIII LIII Couture Shoes Ltd.

Hong Kong, China
A secret often shared among expat women in Hong Kong is this fast and relatively inexpensive custom shoe emporium with two locations in Wan Chai's Admiralty Centre. Run by the Chan brothers, whose father was a cobbler, LIII LIII is the place to get the latest footwear fashions measured to your exact width and size and made in the color and fabrics of your choice—and it's especially beloved by tall ladies with larger feet who often have trouble finding size 10 (or up!) in the local shops. Our six-foot-tall editor, Chantal, was tipped off by an even taller German colleague when she lived in HK in 2001, and the pair of black kitten heels she bought are still in respectable shape. The shop's shelves are overflowing with examples of the most popular styles and colors that you can mix and match; you can also request your own custom variation or bring in an example of a favorite design that you'd like replicated. Don't expect high-quality Italian craftsmanship, but the shoes are decent and are fun way to get the style of the season without too much of an investment. (Why not get your new pair made in every color with handbags to match?) Orders take about a week to be completed, and they'll redo them if your kicks don't come back perfect the first time around.
Phone: +852 2865 3989
Admiralty Centre, Tower 2, 18 Harcourt Road, Shop No. 75, 1/F | Wan Chai, Hong Kong China
Geography: Hong Kong, China

Massaro

Paris, France
Raymond Massaro has history in his sole. Ever since his grandfather opened this Parisian shoe-making business in 1894, the modest workshop has been turning out footwear for a long list of illustrious clients from fashion kingpins to royalty and movie stars—Kennedy clan members, Marlene Dietrich and Elizabeth Taylor to name just a few. The family has also been a faithful friend of the couture style set, often collaborating with iconic fashion houses. Though Raymond still oversees the business, he recently sold the company to Chanel. These days, you can visit the showroom and consult with a master boot-maker who'll cast a mold of your foot, take measurements and work with you to devise the perfect shoe in the on-premise workshop. It takes about 40 hours of work by the small staff to make a single pair. If only Cinderella had it this good.
www.massaro.fr | Phone: +33 (0)1 42 61 19 55
2 rue de la Paix | Paris 75002 France
Geography: Paris, France

Otabo

Fittings at Retail Locations Throughout US and Canada; Ships Globally
Old World sensibility and modern technology come together to create the fine footwear from Otabo, including a special line of elegant golf shoes for men and women. Founder Howard Shaffer has crafted a company committed to forging a personal connection between client and shoemaker, but even as he puts an emphasis on making all the shoes with classic materials, he takes advantage of contemporary design techniques and tools that guarantee every shoe fits with calculated precision. Your foot will be scanned and about 200,000 data points will be collected to create a model of your foot before NASA-caliber measurements are taken. Sabrina Shaffer, Howard's daughter who works in research and development for the company, explains that the shoes and the whole company have been driven by what customers ask for. "Historically, hoes started as a very custom product, then everything evolved into buying-off-the-shelf, mass market shoes," she says. "Otabo's shoes aren't only individualized with your input and fit, but the customer plays a role in having a bigger say." Case in point: Otabo's golf course-appropriate lines came about because customers started asking for them. Before long, their custom golf shoes for men and women were being laced up by some of the highest ranking pros. Talk about fitting to a tee! Various retail locations throughout the United States, Canada and China have the technology to scan your foot, and throughout the year Otabo also holds trunk shows in country clubs in the U.S. for fittings. You can expect your shoes within six to eight weeks.
www.otabo.com | Phone: +1 954 571 3809

E. Vogel Custom Boots and Shoes

New York, New York
Jodhpurs, paddocks, loafers and cowboy boots are just a few of the specialties of this Lower Manhattan shop, which is currently in its fourth generation of ownership. E. Vogel's riding boots are so highly prized that jockeys from far and wide, as well as the US Olympic Equestrian Team, journey here for its custom wares. The attention to detail is stunning, all the materials are top-shelf, and the shoes are as durable as the company, which has been around since 1879.
www.vogelboots.com | Phone: +1 212 925 2460
19 Howard Street | New York, NY 10013 United States

Stefano Bemer

Florence, Italy
If you like to buy your shoes from someone with the personal touch of a hair stylist, pay a visit to Stefano Bemer at his headquarters in Florence. The uber-cobbler was once one of Gucci's designers. Since venturing out on his own, he constantly brandishes his imaginative sense for retro styles and contemporary design alike. And he's bold with his use of material—shark skin, camel hide, French calf and toad skin have all become footwear on his cobbler's bench. His intricate custom designs are in high demand, but he's so meticulous that he usually only makes 200 pairs a year. (He does sell ready-to-wear shoes.) We think he's proof that the muse that inspired Michelangelo still lingers in this storied city.
www.stefanobemer.it | Phone: +39 055 222 558
143r Borgo San Frediano | Florence 50124 Italy

Silvano Lattanzi

Milan, Rome, New York, Shanghai
In the lingua franca of men's high-end fashion, “Silvano” is pretty much a synonym for quality. In true romantic Italian form, he's a self-dubbed “poet of shoes” and his craftsmanship is destiny, having been raised in Italy by parents who worked in shoe factories. He works with fine-grained calfskin and is known for his custom leather engravings. He has designs you can choose from or you can work with him to style your own creation.
www.silvanolattanzi.it | Phone: +39 07 34 810 213
167 Via Mostrapiedi | Cassette d’Este 63011 Italy
Geography: Italy

Sergio Rossi

Venice, Italy

Make an appointment with Edmundo Castillo, the creative director of Italian shoe company Sergio Rossi, and he'll turn a mould of your foot into a shoe that will fit you like a second skin (from £1,500). He makes shoes for men and women, but he's better known for sexy, feminine numbers. Can't make it to Venice? No problem. Edmundo travels for the sake of fine-fitting shoes. That's what I called well-heeled.

www.sergiorossi.com | Phone: +39 041 241 3615
705 San Marco, Mercerie San Zullan | Venice 30124 Italy
Geography: Venice, Italy

 

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2 Comments

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arendezvouswithstyle on Aug. 21, 2008

Dear Suzanne and Spire readers,

I completely agree! While creating and purchasing custom made shoes can be quite pricey, it is well worth the investment for a classic pair that will last you a lifetime!

Women, think black leather, pointy toe pump or black knee-high boots. For the more adventurous, try a red patent stiletto.

Men, go with either black or brown leather oxfords or loafers and maybe a more casual slip-on for weekend wear.

Proper fit, adequate arch support and superior quality go a long way, whether the road you travel is the concrete jungle of New York City, an old historic cobblestone street in Europe or a tropical trail through the jungles of the world.

Happy Shopping!

elger on Sep. 3, 2008

This list is delightfully international.  However, for men's bespoke, the top names by far are Lobb and Fosters, both in St James's, London.  Those who know will tell you that Terry Moore (at Fosters) is the finest last maker in the world.