My picks in Epicurean

Restaurant File: Los Angeles

The star power has made Tinseltown the stuff of legends¸ but in addition to the silver screen¸ there's also the draw of the silverware. Here are a handful of the marquee names when it comes to mealtime.
The star power has made Tinseltown the stuff of legends, but in addition to the silver screen, there's also the draw of the silverware. Here are a handful of the marquee names when it comes to mealtime. Both myself and Natalie Bovis-Nelsen, a mixologist and author who chronicles her stirring cocktial adventures on her blog, The Liquid Muse, offer our tips on this sprawling city's best bets.

AK Restaurant & Bar

Pizzeria Mozza

In a city of celebrities, it makes perfect sense that Pizzeria Mozza is anchored by an all-star cast of superstar toques. Chef Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali, and Joseph Bastianich, the ensemble behind the perennially popular Osteria Mozza, decided to open this more casual pizzeria as an annex. The wood-fired oven pizzas are light and crispy, just like you get in Italy. And then there's the creative toppings. Try the pie piled with little neck clams, garlic, oregano, parmigiano and pecorino. Even tastier with one of the gorgeous Italian reds from their well-edited wine list. For desert, you'll want to sample the sensuous olive oil gelato — unique! This pizzeria is always buzzing—the suits flock in for business lunches and the late night clubbers regularly visit before hitting the dance floors. There's a private dining room for group tables; note there's a 30 days advance booking policy. Service can be a little lackadaisical, but take my word for it, when you get your pie, you'll say "worth the wait."
www.mozza-la.com | Phone: +1 323 297 0101
641 North Highland Avenue | Los Angeles, CA 90038 United States

Comme Ça

Shedding light on the traditionally heavy dishes of French brasserie cuisine with California's signature freshness and generous helping of coastal sunshine, Comme Ça hit trendy Melrose Avenue like a welcomed foreign invasion. "Comme Ca is one of LA's newest treasures. Not only is there a great social scene, the food is what I'd call California-style country French," Natalie says.The cocktails are crafted according to the rules of classic mixology, she points out, with hand-cracked ice, hand-squeezed juices, "just as it should be." This place is popular for all the right reasons, but popularity has its pratfalls. "The only complaint—it is loud in here, so go for group fun rather than an intimate evening or business dinner. You will wind up yelling over the table."
www.commecarestaurant.com | Phone: +323 782 1178
8479 Melrose Avenue | Los Angeles, CA 90069 United States

Magnolia

Night owls, rejoice! This upbeat, buzzy spot is open late (3am on weekends and 2am on weekdays) and offers gourmet grub perfect for a Hollywood midnight feast. Cool huge tree in the middle of the patio bar—very west coast-gothic! Perfect for a post-theatre nosh/coffee/dessert or a pre-club dinner/drink—they aren't uptight here. It is small—and popular—so it can get a little crowded and warm, but the white surfaces and black leather help give the sense a sense of spaciousness. Go for the American tasty basics: macaroni cheese, supremely fresh and flavorsome cobb salad and their momentous ice cream sandwich. Stick to the less experimental dishes and you won't go wrong.
www.magnoliahollywood.com | Phone: +1 323 467 0660
6266 1/2 Sunset Boulevard | Los Angeles, CA 90028 United States

BLD

The name is shorthand for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and three square meals is exactly what you'll find at this hip joint. With white walls, minimal design accents, and light streaming in through massive sliding windows, the restaurant seems created to direct your attention and keep it focused on the hearty American classics that land on your table. Breakfast especially shines with its exhaustive list of pancakes, crêpes and eggs every way you can imagine. The ingredients are incredibly fresh and many of the syrups, jams and such and such come from small boutique producers. If there's something you take a liking to, chances are good that you'll be able to buy some to take home from the tiny specialty food market in the back. Great base to start a day of interiors shopping nearby.
www.bldrestaurant.com | Phone: +1 323 930 9744
7450 Beverly Boulevard | Los Angeles, CA 90036 United States

HamaSaku

One of my favorite meals, ever, hands down. My dear friend Alison, a movie producer, introduced me years ago to the best dishes on the menu. Movie stars, hipsters, would-be movie stars, and locals nibble on spicy tuna ravioli, miso-drenched tenderloin and sashimi at this slightly off-the-radar Japanese joint. Tucked in a mini-mall on Sepulveda and Santa Monica Boulevard, the suave interior, with wooden slats that stretch across the ceiling and a stone fountain, has a zen serenity, even on the busiest nights. The sushi counter takes the spotlight here, no matter what Oscar nominee ends up at the table next to you. Wielding knives against glistening cuts of halibut and yellowtail, chefs nightly put on a high-drama performance that's very fitting for Tinseltown. The dizzying menu holds nothing back in its long of creative rolls—a few named after celebs who are regulars. The baked crab roll is divine, but check out the daily specials for a real treat. Confidences can be exchanged in its quiet ambiance. Just be forewarned: it's pricey, and parking can be hard.
www.hamasakula.com | Phone: +1 310 479 7636
11043 Santa Monica Boulevard | Los Angeles, CA 90025 United States

Penthouse

The Huntley Hotel
The Penthouse, the lounge atop the stylish Huntley Hotel in Santa Monica, is at the top (if you will) of Natalie's list. The sexy white furniture and dark wood accents capture the city's melodrama. Natalie tells us that its trendiness is the uncommonly perfect marriage of style and sensibility. "I expected the best thing about Penthouse to be the view," she says. "With L.A. being largely style over substance, and Penthouse being one of the more stylish destinations on the Westside social scene, I admit that I was pleasantly surprised to have a wonderful meal, too. Succulent fish, gorgeous dessert, chilled champagne--definitely Penthouse living."
www.thehuntleyhotel.com | Phone: +1 310 393 8080
1111 Second Street | Santa Monica, CA 90403 United States

Cut

There are steakhouses and then there's Cut. Yet another high-flying dining concept from the ubiquitous Wolfgang Puck, this one in the Beverly Wilshire sets itself apart from the rest with its Frank Gehry design. The curvy room is dominated by light wood structures and windows stretch up to the ceiling. Pull up to a table in one of the swivel chairs or tuck in at one of the stools at the expansive wood bar and feast. If you don't want to shell out top dollar for the Kobe steak, then at least try the Kobe burger slider for your appetizer. Also setting mouths a'watering is the rotisserie honeyed duckling to share. Their sommelier is a genius—ask for recommendations and I promise you'll be pleased. Cap off a meal with one of their signature martinis. Service is top shelf. They'll even bring cuts of meat to table for inspection. The only quibble I have is with the parking situation, a general annoyance in LA. Even with validation, valet parking is $10 — silly, no?
Phone: +1 310 275 5200
9500 Wilshire Boulevard | Los Angeles, CA 90212 United States

Citrus at Social

"I first got know the heady creativity behind the cuisine of James Beard award-winning chef Michel Richard at Citronelle in Washington DC," says Natalie. "Richard found fame through his intricately decadent pastries and desserts, and over the last few decades, he has seized gourmands by their delighted taste buds in every course of the meal. Citrus at Social brings sophistication to Sunset Boulevard in an elegant and crisp setting." That elegance includes a subdued yet eye-catching decor dominated by—what else?—citrus hues. The chefs who whip up the straightforward modern French cuisine take presentation as seriously as a window dresser on Rodeo Drive. And with dishes like lobster burgers, a "72 Hour" short rib, and nearly ethereal Swiss chard gnocchi, they take gastronomy to a level that a French monarch—or Hollywood mogul—would surely approve.
www.citrusatsocial.com | Phone: +1 323 337 9797
6525 Sunset Boulevard | Los Angeles, CA 90028 United States

Asia de Cuba Restaurant at the Mondrian Hotel

I add this spot mostly for the pretty garden, lovely to sit alfresco. Expect a constant flow of entertainment execs and whip-thin, designer label-clad beauties vying for seats in this indoor-outdoor eatery. Like the Mondrian Hotel in which it's located, Asia de Cuba bears the stamp of Philippe Starck. Inside, it's white-on-white, stark minimalism that draws your eyes to the colorful crowd. Outside on the patio, it's a bit more subdued. Diners sit at tables in the shadows of trees planted in colossal terra cotta pots and stare out at the mesmerizing city views. The Asian-Latin menu is intriguing and creative, but not fantastic. Mojito-glazed steak; tunapica, a picadillo-style tuna tartare; and Alaskan butterfish with Cuban black beans and edamame salad are all worth trying. Dishes are served family-style. The modus operandi here is share the wealth, especially if you're out for sushi. Sashimi feasts are served at a long alabaster communal table set up in the lobby. And so is the lure of the famous Sky Bar, the Mondrian's poolside open air bar where you can gaze at the stars—above and at the table next to you. It's a necessary after-dinner stop.

www.mondrianhotel.com | Phone: +1 323 650 8999
8440 Sunset Boulevard | Los Angeles, CA 90069 United States

Katana

Natalie, AKA: The Liquid Muse, tells us when she's craving sushi, she heads straight to Katana, which has the vibe of a European lounge set with a Kyoto sensibility. Think: Zen palace in Ibiza. "The fish is supremely fresh, and it is also known for robata--Japanese skewers of meat, poultry or seafood," she tells us. "The robata range from chicken gizzards to foie gras wrapped in filet mignon, so there is something for everyone. They also do their own fruit infusion cocktails which are worth a try."
www.katanarobata.com | Phone: +1 323 650 8585
8439 West Sunset Boulevard | Los Angeles, CA 90069 United States

Simon

This airy restaurant, with aqua and chocolate brown interiors and semi-circle booths partly enclosed by screens takes the classic American diner and gives it a very Beverly Hills-style makeover. I've heard mixed things about the food: some people love it, others think it's just mediocre. Kerry Simon, who made a name for himself dishing out stylishly dressed American standards at his restaurant in the American Hard Rock Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas, extends his hallmark here. His comfort classics with a grown-up and giddily nostalgic twist. Blow out the diet with the signature a "junk food sampler," all your childhood faves—cupcakes, pink SnoBalls, cotton candy, milkshake and warm cookies—with a dash of grownup but giddily nostalgia. But you'll probably want dinner first. Perhaps the bluefin tuna tartare infused with fragrant lemongrass oil will suit your style. If not, you can't go wrong with the crowd-pleasing beef carpaccio pizza. The leafy patio with a dramatic fire pit makes for great al fresco dining. After the feast, you get a perk: speedy entry into the adjacent Stone Rose Lounge, the spot owned by Simon's partner, the after-hours impressario Rande Gerber.

www.sofitella.com | Phone: +1 310 358 3979
8555 Beverly Boulevard | Los Angeles, CA 90048 United States

 

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Topic: Epicurean
Geography: Los Angeles, California
Tags: restaurant

2 Comments

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irish95 on Nov. 17, 2008

Great recommendations.  I posted on the LA Cheat Sheet, but this file is probably more appropriate.  Try Fraiche and Riva (Italian, but contemporary) and Anisette (French Brasserie by Alain Giraud).  Anisette has some of the most authentic French Brasserie decor this side of Balthazar (in NYC).  Riva is the perfect place to go somewhere for a late night meal near the Promenade that is not focused on the tourists.  Light, airy, great decor.  Don't miss the brick oven pizzas and crudo or just hang out in the bar and sample from one of the best selections of Italian wines in LA (including a 2001 San Leonardo by the glass...)

suzanne on Nov. 18, 2008

Your recommendations are great!  Thank you ever so much. Will include them in my hit list when I'm in LA early 2009!